Khao Luang Mountain

Khao Luang ridge line July 2012

Thailand - My Mystery and Muse

Thailand – My Mystery and Muse

Welcome to the year 2551 in the Common Buddhist Era (B.E.) !

I am living in Southern Thailand, famous for its beaches, temples, friendly people, terrorist bombings, and low-cost travel. Actually there are no beaches where I am, at least ones where you would go swimming. There are lot’s of friendly people and quite a few temples. Bombs? Well, that’s really way down South, and for the average person living here, we just try not to think about things like that.

The city I chose to live in is called Nakhorn Si Thammarat. A city of 75,000 people, it is one of the hearts of the South. It is not a tourist destination. English is not spoken. A Taxi is the back-seat of a motor scooter. A meal is $3, traditional Thai massage is $7 – for two hours.

Thailand is a democratic monarchy with a popular and likeable king. His name is, Bhumibol Adulyadej (say, Poom-ee-pon Ah-dune-ya-dah), and his photo is on the wall of EVERY shop and home in Thailand. (Except mine)….. Not that I don’t like the man, but coming here I had to confront my perceptions of monarchies and kings, and respect the law of this land. In doing so I have realized that Thai people are proud of their king’s accomplishments and strive themselves to be like him. Kind, generous, helpful to others, artistic, having a life-long commitment to his duty – not bad on the resume.

Thailand values spoken English and hires teachers of all different backgrounds and skill levels, from the UK, Australia, U.S.A. and Canada. If you can get here, you can have a job. This often means hiring people ‘escaping’ from troubles in their home countries. They usually have breakdowns here too - it just takes a few months for it to catch up with them.

The food here is cheap, tasty, and usually on top of a plate of rice. Spicy food has always been good for me, though when I first arrived, the concept I had of spicy had to change. Food is HOT, damned hot, and that’s just the way it is. It took only a few weeks, and my taste buds either burned off, or my tolerance to beer increased, but the food doesn’t seem so hot now. In fact, if someone asks me, “Is this dish hot?” I tell them to ask someone else, because I don’t know.

The people of Thailand are friendly, and this is not a generalization, it’s a fact. It is unattractive to be angry, and even more so to be stressed. The 47 year-old man who is ‘night security’ for my apartment building, laughs like a 10 year-old boy, he giggles, he smokes hand rolled cigarettes (25 cents for a pack of 50), doesn’t drink, and owns three elephants.

White-men and women are considered attractive here, more so than the beautiful coffee-brown skinned people who live here. Walking down the street, or even driving my motor scooter, it is not unusual for women to whistle, call to me, and wave. Seeing an attractive women, walking towards her and saying, “Hello, what is your name?” usually creates a scene where her friends and folks passing by stop and watch and listen. Most people know how to answer that question.

When I continue with, “Pom cheu Will. Yuu tee Thailand hok duean. Jin dee tee, dai rue jaak.” (or my name is Will, I have stayed in Thailand for 6 months, nice to meet you) I am met with a flurry of fast spoken, “Southern Thai”, and lots of laughing.

Children come up to me to touch the hair on my arms. Babies smile, stare, and mothers and fathers often bring children up to me, saying, “farong!” (foreigner).

Full beer glasses are hoisted towards me, it is polite to take a sip and say “Choke Dee” (Cheers!).

Thai people are proud of their culture, their families, and their country. They should be. Though not an economic mega polis, or a military command centre, is it a place with a history, a people, a language, and a culture.

Asian Style Toilets - The Squat and Drop

“Asian” style toilet typical of Thailand

I coined the term, “Squat and Drop” – this is self explanatory

These are functional and come with a personal hose attached (which is great since there is NO paper!) However, walking out of the ‘water closet’ with a huge wet spot on your ass is not considered attractive.

Flushing is achieved by scooping water from the nearby basin with the ever-present plastic bowl floating in it. Then water is poured into the toilet, thereby releasing water on everything from the floor to your shoes, or feet depending on your footwear at the time. Use two bowls!

1. Very useful if your objective is to save water, since you’ll avoid using the toilet at all costs!

2. The name can also be used for what you will be doing if you happen to be drunk and try and use the toilet

3. Wear shoes at all times! These rooms have wet floors.

4. Squat with your feet on the traction strips located on each side of the toilet. Failure to do so may cause mis-firings, or slippage

A funny sign from a bathroom in Thailand:

Please don’t eat the ice! (they put ice in urinals….)

A funny bathroom story from Thailand:

I was just stepping up to the urinal and began using it when the ‘bathroom guy’ who had carefully warmed little towels came up behind me and applied one to the back of my neck. I’m not comfortable with people I don’t know touching me, I’m not comfortable with men standing directly behind me while using the urinal, AND I’m not comfortable with men massaging my neck while I’m trying to take a piss.

It’s called “stage-fright” and I had a bad case of it!

Where I am in Thailand

Where I am in Thailand

Currently (May 2008) I live in Southern Thailand in a city called Nakhon Sri Thammarat, in the province or jang wat of Nakhon Si Thammarat. History here goes back a long ways - this place was a former capital of the area and has some really old buildings.

The weather here is tropical, though pretty dry. There is a hot season, and a hot and wet season. Right now (May) it’s sunny practically every morning and rainy by evening – perfect for growing rice!

The largest Wat (or Buddhist temple) in Nakhon, is called Wat Phra Mahathat (or Wat Phratat for short). It has a large compound surrounding it and the area features many beautiful yet typical Thai style buildings, most housing large collections of Buddha figures.

The pinnacle styled building is called a Chedi (like ched + ee in cheddar cheese) and are borrowed and adapted from Sri Lankan style Chedis. One chedi in the center of the city is called Chedi Yak (or big Chedi) and is quite old and definitely a landmark.

A distinctive building in Thai wats is called a boat which literally means temple. These are typically large buildings featuring elaborate roofs and house one or more Buddhas and areas to worship.

People in Nakhon are friendly as is the case in most of Thailand. English is not spoken as much here because of the general lack of tourists (due to a lack of attractions). The typical ‘Southern Thai’ has a dark coffee and cream complexion and their language is considered fast and full of slang.

As a foreigner, I am routinely pointed out to children, spoken about by people passing by, waved at as I drive by, and I often hear, “Hello, where-you-come-from?”

When I speak Thai to folks here, I am often misunderstood since my pronunciation is poor and also likely because many here have met few foreigners, and even fewer who speak Thai. In Bangkok my Thai is understood easily and I feel quite fluent. I think this is because people there speak with foreigners quite often.

A common interaction with a Thai man, woman, or child involves lots of laughing, giggling, and deep-felt smiles. An even temperament and patience is valued more than money and enjoying the moment is taught, modeled, and learned.